the original tie rods both inner and outer. This is nice if you already
have a Granada disk swap.
BTW: I have discovered that this kit is based off of the '82-94
Chevy Cavalier rack-n-pinion unit. These units go for about
$300.00 new. You figure what you are paying for the engineering
testing and manufacturing of the custom tie rod and frame mounts.
So, whole sale the unit probably goes for $500.00 normal retail
is double...there is your price for the unit.
too bad for a power rack unit that will bolt in.
The unit may also be from a 87-96 Chevy Cavilar, Beretta, Grand Am
A1 Cardone CarQuest Part: 22-109
Part number off my unit is: 26022577 other numbers 4 4 267 B Pv 22 S
Here are a few others that might also fit:
87-96 Pontiac GrandAm, 87-93 J200, 87-94Sunbird
87-91 Olds Calais, 87-88 Firenze, Taurus or BMW racks may also work
The reason is that you need to cut the steering column and shaft.
There is no room for the shift levers. The rag joint attaches to
the cut shaft with a double "D" link conneciton.
bottom of the frame for bolts to go into. The kit does not use them
Make sure the zerts fit tight. I went as far as to weld mine in the
frame. The kit only uses the top or front most zert.
up using a 66 Mustang column instead.
will use 3" drop springs. I spent a lot on the rack-n-pinion so I
should probably protect it.
frame. I kit assumes power steering which would have the nut in the frame.
Off to the catalogs to order the molly type nut.
in place of the steal shaft. Then cut the wood dowel down until it
fits properly. Once you have the lenght, cut equal amounts from
both side of the threaded steal shaft.
Wood is easier to work with than steal...duh ;-)
The fan pulley is a stange size. Its a little too short.
I need to see if I can find another.
The belt did develop a burn mark in it. See the pics at the end of this
page. I need to get a smaller belt.
of the screen notice the washers on the pump. I need to do this
because the power steering barket it from a 1975 351 Torino.
the tie rods.
a little to make room for the tie rods.
a little to make room for the tie rods.
many, many, test fits to get just right.
on the steering shaft. I did this with a grinder and a lot of time.
I finished the surfice with a flap disc.
This helps keep the borgeson Ujoint on the shaft. The column had about
1/4" play in it after my install. I decided to leave it and allow the
rest of the steering components keep the shave from moving in and out
that 1/4".
hair. The Ujoint will touch it in this position.
allow for adjustments if necessary. I want the shafts to be as long
as possible and still work correctly.
The shaft is just below flush with the Ujoint. This will allow for a
full range of motion in the Ujoint. It is important to get the fit right.
This will prevent the joint from failing and help ensure the safety of
the setup. It will also allow for a long life for the Ujoint.
Ujoint nice and tight even with out the set screws. There is just a
little wobble in the Ujoint on the shaft without set screws. The
set screws tighten the unit up nicely.
column and the rack to fit. I needed to cut about a dimes thickness
off both ends of the intermediate shaft.
I have this fear of the shaft falling out...It really can not per the
design of the setup. I went just one further to ensure even if the
set screws on the Ujoints were to loosen up you could still steer the car.
I lowered the rack about 1/2" to get the shaft on. Then tighten up the
rack. Next, adjustment the intermdiate shaft fits
just right. If I need to remove the steering...I need to remember to
drop the rack...loosen two bolts to get the intermediate shaft out.
tie rod on the passengers side.
My solution was to change the tie rod center link so that the tie
rods bolt in from the bottom.
That is a little low...
I needed to weld in the zerts and bend back the bracket.
NOTE: These do not come with the kit...
not sit down in the pulley deep enough
3 pulley unit. Its from a 4cyl fox body Mustang.
rod adjuster. A "band aid" was also welded in for extra strength.
This allowed us to use the stock '78 Granada outer tie rod ends.
tie rod. Perfect would be horizontal. These might need just a little
longer spacer. I will drive it for a while and make a call. So far
no bump steer... :-)
We welded the braket in and I drilled an bolted the braket in as well.
It was necessary to move the right side down and back about an inch
to get the rack to sit square in the vehicle. I think the folks at
Dearborn have a little work to get this kit perfect.
We welded the braket in and I drilled an bolted the braket in as well.
He had fabricated some truely strong 4x4 suspensions and steering setups.
He was more than familiar with the way to use rod-ends in a safe
and secure manner. Nylon nut locks and carter pins on everything.
