Start with a '89-93 Mustang HO fuel injection harness
Add a 02 heat relay
Add a fuel pump relay including safety switch
Lengthen the AC relay
All relays need wires long enough to be located under the dash
The power relay should be just fine. It probably does not need to be
lengthened.
Next take apart the 8 pin female connector near the ECC test
This is most of the internal wiring trace out:
red/green = power on
red/blue = key on power/start
white/red = oil pressure
Tan/yellow = tac or coil neg (this is an option)
tac can be pulled from inside near the eec itself
the vehicle to a switch to turn on the AC.
White with Blue is the AC switch and relay
Pin 17 Tan is engine test light off the EEC itself
This needs to be run back inside the vehicle with the computer harness
grey/red sensor signal return. Why eliminate the switch?
The early mustang has the neutral safety swith wired on the inside
of the car connected to the key/ignition. On slightly newer
year the neutral safety switch was moved to the transmission. If
this is the case wire pin 30 and a grey/red signal return into the
transmission harness park/neutral sitch.
Neutral safety switch is one of the harder circuits to iron out
O2 sensor harness
Backup lights
2 - wire brush the rusty engine
3 - tape and spray with grey engine paint
4 - change pan and oil pickup
5 - install pulleys and belt
6 - locate AC parts
A few things damaged when the motor was pulled
Another broken plug
I sold the motor locally to a fellow who's hot rod was running too hot.
He just wanted a get around town motor in his 37 Ford.
It took 7 hours by myself to pull the motor and clean up.
On December 17, 2005 I sold the engine for to a local car nut and
new friend Brian Pain. He intends to use it in his '37 Ford Hot Rod
for a few years.
for a core builder.
Now to focus on engine clean up on the 5.0L engine. The transmission is
ready to go...It should not take too long to get the new drivetrain
physically installed.
I will need to modify the trans mount to make it work.
so I sort of just spot welded.
EFI Falcon/Mustang etc. A fuel accumulator is a necessary component
of this fuel system. This is due to the external fuel pump.
Hard turns or acceleration can cause fuel to slosh under low fuel
situations. This can starve and damage the fuel pump and make the
engine sputter.
trans shaft to the centerline or bolt hole on the rear Ujoint mount on
the pinion. Turns out the stock driveshaft tube was 7/8 too short.
I cost $180.00 to get the new driveshaft including yoke, tube and
balanced.
to reuse the heater hoses off the explorer. They almost fit perfect.
I bent up some coat hangers to get the radiaor hose bends just right.
Then my local auto parts shop helped me match up some Gates hoses.
The Top hose is Gates Part# 22484
The bottom hose is Gates Part# 20559
I also bought an 8 pass trans cooler to keep the transmission healthy.
test fit of the new motor. I started at 1pm on 02/26/06 and had the
motor mostly in by about 4pm.
There are a few clearance challanges...
comes down right on this little sensor.
87-93 Mustang.
clear the shock tower. I may need to start looking for a 94+ Mustang
setup. I think the moved the AC unit to the top and the power steering
to the bottom. Worst case I go to a "long" waterpump/pulley setup.
Mustang headers from 86-93. The first pipe needs to be adjusted to fit.
in all the way. I had to loosen the motor mount bolts aboutn 1/4-1/2"
to get the engine to fit this far.
